The Watchan Loop

Widely considered the greatest “pure riding” loop near Chiang Mai, this challenging ride spans 300 km, with 250 km of mountain roads. It offers a variety of landscapes and cultural experiences, from lush jungles and pine forests to dry valleys and densely populated areas. Due to its length and difficulty, this loop is best split into two days with an overnight stay in Ban Watchan or Pai. Attempting this loop on a scooter in one day is not advisable.

Most of the ride is above 1,000 m above sea level (ASL), so proper riding gear is essential—particularly in December and January when it can get quite chilly.

Tour Details:

Route (via Google Maps): 108 → 1269 → 1349 → 1265 → 1095 → 107
Road Conditions: Mostly good asphalt roads with occasional potholes and broken concrete sections
Distance: Approximately 300 km
Driving Time (without stops): 7–8 hours
Tour Map: Google Maps Link

Itinerary

Starting Point:

R108 junction outside the moat at Chiang Mai’s South Gate

Begin the ride by taking the southern leg of the Samoeng Loop to Yentafo Yok Lo in Samoeng, a great meeting point for fellow riders. This leg is approximately 45 km and takes about an hour. It’s important to leave early—between 8 AM and 9 AM is recommended—to avoid rushing as the ride is long and challenging.

Go up to Yentafo Yok Lo restaurant in Samoeng on Samoeng Loop south leg

Samoeng to Ban Watchan

Leaving Samoeng, the road (R1349) quickly climbs to 1,000 m ASL, featuring smooth asphalt and thrilling twisties. After 25 km, you’ll reach the Karen village of Bokaeo, your last chance for decent coffee or food before Ban Watchan.

From Bokaeo, the road ascends further to Khun Khan National Park, reaching 1,500 m ASL, with a nice viewpoint along the way.

After another 25 km, you’ll pass through the Hmong village of Mae Ta Ra, where you’ll find a local gas station and motorbike repair shop.

Key Stop: The “Above the Clouds” viewpoint, located 5 km past Mae Ta Ra. This spot offers panoramic 360° views and has a simple restaurant, a small shop, and bungalows available for rent (600 Baht/person per night).

5km further up the road you reach the great viewpoint Above the Clouds

From there, the road descends briefly before another climb, leading to Ban Watchan, a Karen village at 1,000 m ASL surrounded by pine forests.

Ban Watchan (1000m ASL). The road is not as good anymore, and you go through mainly pine tree forest

Ban Watchan has basic Thai restaurants, cafés, and a few homestays, including Dad Homestay, which is highly recommended for a rest or overnight stay.

Ban Watchan to R1095 (Pai-Mae Malai Road)

From Ban Watchan, turn right onto R1265. This well-maintained road climbs slightly before entering Mae Hong Son Province. It then descends 45 km through dense jungle to the R1095 road.

Optional Detour: Take a side trip to the Mueng Paeng Hot Springs, accessible via a narrow concrete road. You can return to R1265 via the scenic “Elephant Trail” along the Pai River.

At the R1265/R1095 junction, you have two options:

Turn right to continue the loop back to Chiang Mai.
Turn left to explore Pai, a popular tourist town.

Optional Stop in Pai

Pai has a wide range of accommodations and attractions, though it’s no longer the tranquil retreat it once was. The town sees heavy tourism, particularly during peak season.

Recommended Accommodations in Pai:

Mr. Jan’s Guesthouse: Affordable bungalows in a garden setting
Family House @ Pai: Riverfront bungalows near the center
Baantawan Guesthouse: Riverfront, slightly away from the busy areas
Baanmai Konmuang: Also on the river north of the city center
Pai Panalee: Quiet, upscale bungalows near the big Buddha

For a quieter alternative, consider staying 35 km beyond Pai in the Soppong Valley (Phang Mapha) at Cave Lodge, located near the Lod Cave.

Return Journey via R1095

If completing the loop in one day, turn right onto R1095. This 100 km stretch to Mae Malai is part of the famous Mae Hong Son Loop and features 762 curves—perfect for experienced riders.

This 100 km stretch to Mae Malai is part of the famous Mae Hong Son Loop and features 762 curves

However, you’ll also encounter numerous minivans, which can be challenging to navigate around.

At 1,400a m ASL, this checkpoint marks the return to Chiang Mai Province

Key Stops Along R1095:

Doi Mae Ya Pass: At 1,400 m ASL, this checkpoint marks the return to Chiang Mai Province.
Huai Nam Dang National Park: Offers nice viewpoints but nothing unique compared to earlier stops.
Kong Gnam Viewpoint: Scenic spot on the descent to Ban Mae Lao (700 m ASL).

nice twisties through the mountain jungle to Ban Mae Lao

From Ban Mae Lao, the road ascends slightly for 15 km to Pa Pae, where you’ll find some restaurants and a meditation retreat.

ear Pa Pae there is a well known and very nice meditation center , if thats your thing.

Mok Fa Waterfall: Located 10 km past Pa Pae, this is a worthwhile stop for its beautiful surroundings and tranquil atmosphere.

Final Leg to Chiang Mai

After Mok Fa Waterfall, civilization begins to reappear, marked by the first 7/11 after 10 km. At this point, you can either:

Turn right onto R3009: A scenic “rice paddy road” for more curves and an extended ride.
Continue straight on R1095: A faster route that connects to R107 at Mae Malai, leading back to Chiang Mai.

The final stretch from Mae Malai to Chiang Mai is approximately 45 km, and you can choose either R107 or R1001 for the return leg.

Summary

The Watchan Loop is a thrilling ride through diverse landscapes, perfect for experienced motorcyclists. Its challenging roads, breathtaking viewpoints, and cultural highlights make it one of the most rewarding loops from Chiang Mai.