The Pongkhrai Loop

This trip takes you into the hinterlands of the Samoeng district. It is free of spectacular temples, waterfalls, or other typical “tourist attractions.” Instead, it offers winding roads with minimal traffic, lush greenery, some of the best jungle accessible by road around Chiang Mai, and the fantastic Café @ Pang Lung as its highlight.

Tour Data:

Route Numbers (per Google Maps): 108 – 1269 – 1349 – 4021 – unnamed road – 1096 – 107
Road Condition: 80% good asphalt roads, 20% concrete roads (bumpy in places)
Distance: Approximately 115 km
Driving Time (without stops): 4 hours
Tour Map: Google Map Link

Starting Point:

The trip begins at the R108 junction just outside the moat at Chiang Mai’s South Gate.

Head south on the busy R108 for about 8 km, then turn right onto R121 (signposted for Samoeng) and continue for 2.5 km to the next junction. From there, proceed straight onto R1269, where traffic decreases, marking the start of the southern leg of the Samoeng Loop.

The road winds through villages for about 10 km before ascending gently to Krista Doi Pass (830 meters ASL).

Suggested Stops Along R1269:

Bannok Coffee Roasters Café: Despite its exterior resembling an abandoned factory, it features a shady garden by the river and excellent coffee.
Royal Train Resort: Enjoy lunch or drinks in a vintage dining car from the last century. It’s also a great place to stay overnight.
Wat Ban Pok: A charming white pagoda worth a quick visit.
Mountain Corner Café: Offers the best views among several coffee stops along the route.

As you climb, you’ll pass several luxurious resorts, such as Belle Villa, which lives up to its name.

At the mountain pass, the simple Seven Curves Restaurant marks the descent via steep switchbacks to Ban Mae Khanin Nuea, home to a picturesque temple.

Optional Activities:

Patara Elephant Conservation Camp: Accessible via a left turn after Ban Mae Khanin Nuea.
Trail of the 100 River Crossings: Suitable for experienced dirt bike riders, this trail follows the Khanin River to Ob Khan National Park.

From the village, a short 5 km climb leads to another mountain pass (1,000 meters ASL), followed by a 2 km descent to the R1269/1096 junction.

Detour Option:

Turn right onto a bumpy concrete road for a steep 3 km climb to the Hmong village of Ban Buak Chan. The Nuea Doi Camping site here offers the loop’s best viewpoint and cozy glamping tents for overnight stays (prepare for chilly nights).

At the R1269/1096 junction, continue straight for about 5 km to Samoeng.

In Samoeng:

Visit the local market.
Stay at one of the resorts or homestays, such as Nai Khun Khao Resort or the upscale Lhongkhao Samoeng.
Dine at Yentafo Yok Lo, a popular biker hangout and the starting point for many “extended Samoeng Loops.”

To reach Yentafo Yok Lo, turn right at the market onto R1349 and drive 2 km.

Go up to Yentafo Yok Lo restaurant in Samoeng on Samoeng Loop

Continuing the Loop:

From the restaurant, take the right fork onto R4021. This scenic road winds up the Samoeng River valley for 9 km, then turns east and follows the Pok River valley for another 5 km to Ban Pok village.

At Wat Ban Pok, a small temple, turn right onto a narrow, unnamed concrete road that ascends into the jungle. Opposite the temple is a large shop where you can stock up on drinks.

Highlights in the Jungle Section:

The next 10 km through dense jungle are serene and quiet. You’ll likely encounter no more than one or two cars, and there’s a chance (albeit rare) of spotting a herd of monkeys.

After the jungle, you’ll arrive at Pong Khrai, a sizable village with the newly opened Flying Eagle Zipline.

Café @ Pang Lung:

From Pong Khrai, follow the sign to Café @ PangLung. A narrow, steep concrete road leads to this unique café/restaurant, which opened in October 2023. Built into two massive banyan trees with six levels, it offers stunning views and a distinctive ambiance. Although the food is simple and slightly pricey, the coffee is good, and the setting is unforgettable.

From the café, descend another 4 km to the R1096, the northern leg of the Samoeng Loop. Turn left and follow the road for 22 km to the R1096/107 junction at Mae Rim. From there, it’s another 15 km on R107 back to Chang Phueak (North) Gate in Chiang Mai.